This overview is not intended to replace the information in the installation manual. The information below is provided as a convenience to show customers the general techniques and methods for installing roof heating systems. To ensure that the warranty remains valid and the system performs as intended, it is essential to have a licensed electrician connect all the wiring of the roof heating system.
NOTE: Refer to your installation manual and carefully follow the layout provided by Warmzone®.
Warmzone's low-voltage RoofHeat™ STEP roof de-icing system is an excellent roof heating option for discreet roof de-icing. Unlike most other roof heating systems, the heating element of this system is not a heat cable. The system features a thin polymer heating panel that can be nailed and stapled through, and cut on site.
Electric roof heating systems using self-regulating heating cables are not particularly difficult to install. While roof heating cable and RoofHeat STEP low-voltage heating elements can be laid out and secured to the roof by most conscientious do-it-yourself homeowners, the wiring of the roof heating system must be completed by a licensed electrician.
The STEP low-voltage heating elements should not touch, cross, or overlap at any point.
The polymer heating element can be stiff and brittle in cold conditions and should not be bent or folded. Rolled up heating elements may be energized for a short period of time to make them warm and pliable, but care must be taken to ensure that the rolled up element does not overheat.
Heating elements should be installed in temperatures between 40°F and 140°F (4°C to 60°C).
Make sure to note the locations of the bus braids on each side of the heating element to avoid fastening through them. The polymer material can be penetrated provided the fasteners do not go through the bus braids.
REFER TO THE LAYOUT PROVIDED BY WARMZONE. For heating element length and wattage per power supply, refer to your installation manual.
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Roll the heating element out and cut to length according to the layout. Place the heating elements on top of the ice and water shield. Placement between the felt and waterproofing underlayment is also acceptable if there is sufficient insulation below (i.e. higher thermal insulation under than over the elements). NOTE: Avoid overlap or contact between heating elements. Do not puncture the bus braids. |
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Do not install the heating elements in direct contact with any conductive material. Use the heat retainer pad for all roofing installations. |
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The element can be attached to the roof using the following alternatives: Fasten the element using weatherproof poly-tape and/or two-sided adhesive tape, or nail or screw at least 1 inch from edge of element using galvanized steel roof products. Do not penetrate bus braids located on each side. Should this occur, cut the element, splice and seal properly. When nailing through the metal sheet or other roofing materials, mark the position of the heating elements to avoid penetrating the bus braids. |
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Connect extension wires to the heating element according to the drawing and electrical diagram. If fail safe wiring is required, refer to "Fail Safe Wiring" in the manual. |
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Determine wire gauge versus load and length of wire from the element to the power supply. If the distance is longer than 15 feet, connect the extension wires to a terminal block and then route to the power supply using higher gauge wires as shown in the sample wiring diagram. |
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Route the wires flat on the roof and down through the deck in a conduit, if required by code. Connect wires in parallel to the 24 volt, EPI-LX-R power supply. Use only stranded tinned copper wires, and do not twist wire ends when connecting to the interface board in the power supply. |
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Distribute the load evenly. The maximum load per circuit is 450 watts or 34 feet (10 m) of roof heating element (MEP-30-36W-24V). |
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The element can be attached to the roof using the following alternatives: Nail or screw at least 1 inch from edge of element using galvanized steel roof products. Do not penetrate bus braids located on each side. Should this occur, cut the element, splice and seal properly. Or, fasten the element using weatherproof poly-tape and/or two-sided adhesive tape. |
These installation instructions are general in nature. Consult with Warmzone if you have specific installation questions. Refer to the installation manual provided when installing the system.
FOR DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO YOUR INSTALLATION MANUAL.
Self-regulating roof heating cable is the ideal affordable solution for keeping gutters and downspouts free of snow and ice during the winter months. The heat cable conveniently clips into the gutter to heat the area and facilitate runoff. Much of the cable layout can be completed by the homeowner or roof installer, but for warranty purposes, a qualified electrician must wire the system.
When it comes to roof snow, the most common - and costly - problem is the ice dam. Ridges of ice form along the roof eaves, causing additional melted snow to pool up behind the ridge and threaten the integrity of the roof. To prevent ice dams from forming, self-regulating heat cable can be run in a zig zag pattern along the roof eaves. The cable provides channels for the runoff, preventing large ice dams from forming. For more information, call 888-488-9276 today.
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Test your heat cable upon receipt. |
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Make sure that the heat cable is in contact with the roof and gutter to ensure proper melting. |
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The roof heat tracing system utilizes a "zig zag" (or repeated "V"-shape) pattern along the roof's eave. This pattern helps to prevent ice dams by melting snow and ice along the roof eave and edge. |
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Do not install the roof heating cable under the shingles or roofing material. |
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Be aware that it may be necessary to install a snow fence near the edge of the roof to prevent damage to the cable by snow sliding from the roof. |
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Run heat trace cable below the frost line in downspouts to underground sewers. |
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In interior roof drains the heat cable should be run 12 inches down into the heated portion of the building. |
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Heat cable installed in zig-zags along the roof's edge should have drip loops extending 2-inches past the roof edge. |
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Allow the heat cable to exit out the bottom of the gutter downspouts at least 3 inches so the water will flow away from the gutter and ice will not form at the bottom of your downspout. |
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The heat cable should be installed to run along the bottom of the gutter (touching the gutter bottom), to best melt the snow and ice and keep water flowing freely. |
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Roof clips may be secured to the roof using adhesive or screws. After fastening the roof clips with screws, it is recommended to place a dab of weatherproof silicone caulk over the screws to seal the screw holes and prevent any leaking. |
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Whenever possible, exterior junction boxes should be located to avoid direct exposure to the weather, and the cable should include drip loops where it enters the box. |
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When using multiple circuits on larger installations try to locate all the junction boxes in one area to reduce power feed conduits. |
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A complete checklist of materials should include: heat cable, power termination, end seal, roof clips, and a controller as required. |
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NOTE: It is crucial that a qualified, licensed electrician be hired to connect the wiring and related electrical components. This not only helps to ensure that the system is wired correctly, but this fulfills the warranty requirement, and therefore maintains the validity of the warranty. CALL NOW TO SIGN UP FOR FREE INSTALLATION TRAINING: 801-948-7577. |
888-488-9276
info@warmzone.com
